Decorative Painting

  • The Base Coat; The base coat is very important. Wood has varying shades such as red, yellow, brown tones, and so on. Choosing the right base tone will give the faux wood grain its tone. The base coat is usually an eggshell or satin sheen so that the glaze will not bleed into the base.
  • The Grain Glaze; The hardest skill to master is tinting the grain glaze. Mastering the ability to create the perfect tone of the grain you are emulating is accomplished by trial and error over a period of many years. Often we will purposely start with a tone less than that which we are emulating and gradually add more tints. In some cases, two grain glazes are used making the faux grain project a four step process. Glazes techniques and tools vary depending on grain style and preference;
  1. Chip Brushes; Chip brushes can be used to apply the glaze. The glaze should be evenly distributed across the area to be grained. They can also be used to make the desired grain you intend to imitate.
  2. Glass Cutters; These brushes can be used to reduce the amount of glaze and more evenly distribute the glaze. In certain instances, they can be used as “softeners”. Glass cutters can be used to grain on larger faced areas such as stairway stringers or flat faced doors.
  3. Softening Brushes; Our most often used softening brush is a badger hair brush. These brushes will fade hard lines and blend the color tones. This has the exceptional effect of giving the faux grain that professional realistic look and feel of actual wood that has been stained.
  • Sealers; The final process of faux wood grain is the sealer coats. Usually two full coats is needed to bring the grain process full circle. Latex sealers is our preference because not only do they dry faster, they also do not crack when used on exterior metal doors. Sealers can also be sprayed onto wet grain glaze and will speed the dry time of the glaze. In other situations when oil grain glazes are used, the only option for a sealer may be oil based.